Mcleod Ganj

"Where we love is home,
Home that our feet may leave, but not our hearts."
Oliver Wendell Holmes

Nothing helps sooth the heart like some quality family time. After almost 2 and half months of traveling with no place to call our own, we found ourselves a home. For 8 days McLeod Ganj served us up a steaming plate of family lovin', which is exactly what we all needed. Our homestay began in the afternoon after the long journey from Amritsar. We had only a few moments to say goodbye to group members before we were rushed off by parents or elder siblings to our week long homestay. Tibetan families welcomed us with open arms into their homes of all shapes and sizes.
The week literally vanished before our eyes as each day was spent getting to know eachother better and accomplishing our various internships. Kathryn, Rozzi and I enrolled ourselves in yoga classes which provided a healthy and relaxing start to our mornings. We felt like yogi masters having already accomplished a prior week of yoga study at the ashram. Alex, who missed the Hindi classes due to tummy aches, decided to brush up on his Hindi and took classes each afternoon. Saorise independently branched out and did environmental volunteering, where she spent a day beautifying a local water fall by picking up trash. Bobby, Elaynna, Sarah and Laura took a several different massage courses. The girls satisfied their curiosity and interests through a 2 day program while Bobby took a 6 day course getting certified in Tibetan massage. Needless to say our internships were successful.
Outside of our classes there was still an abundance to learn. McLeod Ganj is known for being a home to Tibetan refugees. I spent three incredible afternoons at the Tibetan Hope Center involved in English classes. Classes such as these are amazingly beneficial to the community by improving local Tibetans English and furthering their connection with travelers. For an hour-and-a-half, myself and two Tibetans would talk about simply everything and anything. I heard long, emotional accounts of heart breaking choices to flee Tibet and the struggle to cross into India on foot. On lighter notes I discovered how many Tibetans had never tried Pizza and that most of their favorite foods consist of Momo's.
But we all know,
Mo momo's mo problems.

This past week was a perfect way to soak up the last bits of North Indian culture before beginning our free travel. McLeod Ganj provided many beautiful experiences for our group. Our enthusiasm for our homestays only increased as the days went by. Family relationships grew stronger as each of us started to truly feel at home in this small Indian/Tibetan town. Oliver Holmes was right, even though we are no longer physically in McLeod Ganj a piece of Carpe Diem's heart still beats there.

paz & amor
dev

Turbans and Temples

Thank goodness for our peaceful week Phool Chatti ashram, because the days following were a whirlwind of travel, exploration, group discussions, heat and crowds. Upon arriving Chandigarh, the only planned city in all of India, we were thrust into finding accommodation which, as Elaynna mentioned, Devon and Rozzi spearheaded and secured us a spot at a very comfortable hotel. While most of our first day there revolved around much needed group meetings, we did manage to explore the clean, paved streets scored with stoplights, and an expanse of outdoor mall that turned carnival-esque at night. It was there that we had a pre-birthday dinner at a South Indian chain restaurant for Sarah, followed by some deliciously cold soft-serve ice cream and some freshly popped popcorn.

The following morning we all made it to the famous Nek Chand Rock Garden of Chandigarh. Never heard of it? Neither had we, but apparently it is the second-most visited site in India. WhenChandigarh was in the midst of construction and they were clearing out villages to make way for the huge malls and wide streets (makes the city slightly less charming, no?) there was so much garbage and rubble lying around that a gentleman named Nek Chand decided to do something with it. Long story short, he received some money from the government and got to work creating a beautiful rock/sculpture garden/maze/extravaganza that spans 40 acres. Needless to say it was a phenomenal sight. We then headed to a birthday lunch for Sarah, at Ruby Tuesdays! Talk about a Western city. As we departed Chandigarh that afternoon, we said goodbye to our little taste of American culture and prepared totransition into traditional India once again, but this time in Sikh style.

Our three days in Amritsar were intense, exhilarating and filled with stunning sights. We were greeted at the Golden Temple by crowds of turbaned men, women in beautiful saris and more babies than I think any of us have laid eyes on. Though we did sleep in a dormitory designated for foreigners, it was in the temple complex, and all we had to do was take a step outside the room to by surrounded by Indians who traveled far and wide to pray at one of the holiest shrines in Sikh culture.

Our days were free to be spent exploring, photo-taking, meandering through the temple complex and eating at the Gura-Ka-Langar--a free community dining center that serves approximately 9,000 meals a day! Eating our Langar-the name given to this charitable meal- was an experience I don't think any of us will soon forget. You're beckoned by the incessant clanging of metal plates, and once inside, are handed one of those plates, a bowl and spoon and join the moving mob. You're herded down the large hallway, trying not to lose sight of the other group members as you're pushed and prodded from all directions until you finally burst into a great hall lined with mats on which you rush to secure a place. The actual serving of the food is surprisingly quick and in a similar fashion as the ashram. Men with baskets of fresh chapatis and buckets of steaming dahl and rice pudding, rush to fill your plate. The food is delicious and you are welcome to ask for seconds, in fact, you witness many women stuffing extra chapatis into bags or dahl into tupperware. After fifteen minutes, the serving and cleanup of 500 people is done. Insane.

Our final afternoon was spent viewing the India/Pakistan border ceremonies. It was similar to a huge sporting event, though there is no real interaction between the two sides apart from a handshake. It seemed that the main goal was the lowering of the flags but there was a lot of hooplah beforehand, including but not limited to: dancing, running with flags, marching guards and the part where soldiers from each side try to yell at a single tone for as long as they can. There was much cheering and clapping from both sides and the energy was electric. Obviously there is no declared "winner", but I think everyone in attendance can agree that India outperformed Pakistan, at least in the crowd aspect. It was a pretty bizarre experience, but definitely worthwhile and a fantastic ending to our time in the Punjab region of India.

We are now all happily settled in our homestays in McLeod Ganj so you can look forward to an update on that soon!

~Kathryn

Learning to Breathe

Hello Friends and Family!

After settling into Rishikesh with a much needed roof top group meeting, we all decided that Stacy's idea for a solo day for our first free day in Rishikesh was a grand plan. The given space left us with the opportunity to re-visit or discover our intention or overall purpose and desire to why we are here in India. It is easy to get caught up in the hustle bustle of a place like this, but it's even easier to lose awareness of where we actually are. We find ourselves pinpointing problems in our group dynamics or focusing on food for the majority of the day, forgetting the potential depth we could be delving into if we simply melted expectation away.Our solo days varied from cafe journal time, river side sitting, massages, exploring, and the tastiness of fine dining. There is nothing better than a date with yourself and a simple realization of why I am here through sipping on a flavorful, nothing but perfect cup of Masala Chai.
We were then ready to soak up the sun with some wet and wild rafting fun! We spent the following day with the sun kissing our skin as we laughed and screamed folding in and out of the rapids. As we jumped off rafts and splashed in the water of the Ganges river we simultaneously "washed away our sins" as many believers in India would say. We ate a delicious lunch along the riverside and got to know our charming rafting guides. We spent the next day settling and preparing for the following week which we spent at the Phool Chatti Ashram. With little idea of what to expect we were all excited to gain more yoga and meditation experience. Although we all as individuals got something different from the reatreat, I felt it was an excellent time and place for self reflection, and realization of where we all personally stand in terms of discipline while living " The Ashram life". The calming energy melted into our skin and relaxed our minds.

Bodies clutter and stabilize on warm cement
Stretching and creaking our limbs as we bend from side to side
The moon is out with the evening day light and she is smiling big
Her glow wrapping around our heads as we fold them down against our knees
Breathe in, Breathe out
Our feet are planted firmly against sticky mats as we teeter from side to side attempting to find balance and maintain it for a steady stand
Breathe in, Breathe out
Rooftop yoga. A picturesque view. The Ganges river rages and rushes right before our eyes as its sounds pounds and soothes every movement.
The mountains caress each other as they layer over, under, and beyond the water and sky
Stretch up up up, crown to the tip of the sleepy sun, our fingertips grazing the moons energetic crescent
Breathe in, Breathe out.

We started our day at 5:30 am with meditation. The rest of the time was spent chanting, doing breathing exercises, netty pot cleansing, rooftop yoga, contemplative walks (which were absolutely beautiful along the river, and up to the waterfalls), free time, more yoga, temple prayers, fire ceremonies, simple but delicious vegetarian eating and ending our day at 9:00 O'clock with guided mediation. All meals were silent, and everyday was spent in silence until after lunch to provide the opportunity for more inner reflection, and self meditation. The schedule was intimidating at first, but the more one engaged the easier it got. Group members were in and out of sickness but did their best to dive into what they could. Overall it was a very powerful experience, and an absolutely gorgeous place. We have all left with a handful of songs and chants that will probably stick like glue to the corner of our minds for a long time. Leaving the Ashram we were quickly and somewhat violently thrown back into the real world with an hour and a half ride to the bus station. It was loud, crowded, and overwhelming after such a peaceful set of days. Luckily Alex and Laura were able to quickly find transportation to Chandigarh. We settled into a 6 and a half hour bus ride, and upon arrival, though sleepy and delirious Devon and Rozzi found us a place to stay ten minutes after stepping off of the bus. With that said, we are here safe and well for today and tomorrow (Which is lovely Sarah's 18th Birthday! My beautiful girl all grown up:) ) We are then headed to Amritsar!
Missing you all and sending our best from India.
Namaste
Elaynna

P.S. Sharing Sarah's Birthday is my little brother keirynn. So, Happy 6th Birthday buddy!!! Your big sister loves you to bits and pieces.

Our Himalayan Trekking Adventure!

Hello Family and Friends!

Wow.
That's the first word that comes to mind when reflecting back on the amazing experience we all had hiking through the Himalayas. Our first day we came together immediatley as a group--bound by the unified joy of being out in nature. We had been itching to get to the mountains since Calcutta and we had finally made it! And thank goodness we had those high spirits because day one was a challenge to say the least. We walked for 8hrs that first day, which began with blue skies and a friendly sun shiny down on all of our smiling faces. We certainly got our fair share of the Himayalas however, when we were greeted at our first base camp by an overcast sky, snow flurries, and COLD! When I finally reached camp I rememeber not knowing whether to cry, collaspe with exhuastion, or burst into hysterical laughter. Despite these mixed emotions though, we were all able to join around the dinner table that night with the aura of satisfaction.
That night, Kathryne and Devon gave me my first real lesson in astronomy, and I can't imagine a better sky for it! It was truly as if the earth had never been touched by civilization. I saw more constellations then I even knew existed! We fell asleep that night to the soft brightness of the milky way shining down on us as we were serenaded by the quite jingling of the bells that were around our pack animals necks.

We woke to another full day of hiking, this time all up hill. The hike was made more than bareable however, as we climbed into the thick rhondadendrone forest that covered a majority of the mountain that day. The reds and whites of the fowers encompassed us as we hiked along the trail. Deep green moss covered almost every inch of the ground, which was also sprinkled with purple flowers and bright orange butterflies. The scenery that lay before us had an almost mystical atmosphere. After this day, the common theme for the trek actually became a "Lord of the Rings (movie one hehe)" setting. Thankfully there were no black riders.
The higher we climbed, the colder it became--another example of the extremities of the Himalayas. When we reached the "one hour to go" mark, the snow was already an inch thick. It was crazy thinking we had been boiling the day before. SO much can change with just a few thousand feet! Sarah and Stacey struggled with their health especially on this day, but we thankfully all made it up in one peice and in happy spirits. We had finally made it to our highest base camp!

Day three was a relaxing one, where we were woken up to a hot cup of steaming tea served to us right in our tents--a much need amenidty for all of us, seeing as it had snowed a good three inches during the night. It was definitely a good tactic of our guides for coaxing us out of our tents! We proceeded on with the day with a leisulry day hike with the intention of reaching a mountain lake a couple miles out but naturally, the group became side tracked when we started taking pictures. Hopefully we'll be able to upload some onto the blog for you all to see! By the time pictures were over however, the snow had begun to fall again, splitting the group into those wanting the warmth of our "tea tent", and those wishing to strive even deeper into the mountains. We were brought back together again that night with momos and hot mushroom soup to fuel us for our early next day.

We were woken up the 4th dayto see the sunrise at 4am. The morning was fridgid, dark, and all that could be heard was the heavy breathing coming from beneath our coats. When we finally reached the top of the ridge, we had reached our highest point in the trek--14,000ft. Despite the anxiety I felt of maybe not having any fingers left, when the sun began to illuminate the mountains I knew everything would be well worth it. As we huddled against the ridge together, prayer flags blowing in the wind that also was cruel enough to whip across our bare faces, there was a sense of peace as the pinks and yellows of the suns rays began to speckle the largest mountains I had ever seen.
Our trek back down was filled with mixed emotions of wondering where the time had gone, and excitment to be getting back into the warmth of the sun. After the sunrise we had breakfast, packed up our campsite, and made our way back down our first camp site. We got in early enough that we all had a much needed nap time before dinner. To commemorate our last night, our cooks made us a delcious spice cake.

We walked so much down hill that last day I rememeber finding it hard to imagine how we had accomplished it the first day! Bob's youth came out again as he ran/bounced down the trail. Saoirse on the other hand, realized she probably should have taken it a little slower when she almost fell of the trail! Thankfully her trusty side kick Kathryne was there to help her back up, but our last day definitely could have turned into something more than a simple hike down a mountain! I think by the end of the day we were all so tired that we were glad to be moving on, but I know that it was hard for us to leave such a beautiful place. Nature can bring people together in a different way than most things can, and we were lucky enough to experience that.

Much love to everyone,
Laura

P.S. HAPPY BIRTHDAY DAD!!!

Gangtok, Sikkim

Namaste!
After a ten hour train ride and a beautiful but extremely bumpy seven hour jeep ride that winded up through the mountains, we arrived in Gangtok, Sikkim. Originally it was supposed to take five hours to get to Gangtok via jeep however, after bouncing around in the back for an hour, our car came to a complete halt. As the Lonely Planet had warned us to be prepared for road blockages, a truck carrying two tons worth of rocks had run into some mechanical difficulties causing it to sputter out on a one-way bridge. Back home this wouldn’t be a big deal because there would be a detour that one could take. That is not so much the case here considering there is only one road to and from Sikkim. Fortunately, after being in India for over a month, our patience meters have swung far right.
From the moment we arrived we all fell in love with Sikkim. Getting away from the hustle and bustle of the cities into the mountains, where one can breathe and have a sense of personal space, is exactly what our group needed. It has been so calming and refreshing going to sleep and waking up to quietness. Also, not being sticky and sweaty 24/7 has been a major plus.
Sikkim is a state built into the mountains so every morning when I wake up I walk up to the roof and look out to a skyline of beautiful mountains with luscious greenery covering them. I don’t even feel like I am in India anymore because there is such a strong Asian influence here. From what I have observed, at least in Gangtok, a majority of the population is Asian. Also, all of the houses and buildings have a Chinese architectural influence. Sikkim borders Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan. It is quite interesting because Tibet and China won’t accept them and Southern India ignores them. It is like this lost world. In all reality, Sikkim is almost like its own country, yet, constitutionally it is under India’s control.
During our stay we volunteered at an elementary/middle school that was an hour outside of Gangtok. For the four days that we were there we taught the students a variety of different subjects including English, social studies, math, civics, and bio-chem. Saoirse found her future calling as a teacher. Seeing the energy and excitement that she brought into the classrooms everyday, that would then transfer over to the students, was touching.
The younger children, although they were adorable and I wanted to take each and every one of them home, were definitely more of a challenge. Every morning I would walk into a classroom filled with children ages 4-6 with no teacher to supervise them. With kids yelling and climbing in and out of the glassless windows, it almost had the atmosphere of a circus. I doubt that it is always like that but because we were there the teachers felt obliged to step back. In their minds, even though none of us have much teaching experience, our western ways of teaching are far better than there Nepalese ways. I wish they wouldn’t have had that mindset because I would have enjoyed seeing how a routine day of school looked for them.
Even though it was challenging, we all had a wonderful time and were sad when it came time to say goodbye. It is always difficult saying goodbye when you know it actually means goodbye. So often when I say goodbye, I really just mean see you later. This time I knew that would most likely not be the case; we all did. However, as a thank you gift, all of the students put silk scarves around our necks which is a symbol of deep appreciation and respect. Now, we all have a little something to remember them by.
Our stay in Gangtok was just what the doctor ordered. As our time comes to an end here, we are sad to say goodbye but are looking forward to our trek through the Himalayas! Hope all is well back home and get excited for the next blog which will be posted in about ten days.
--Sarah

PS. To all my friends and family back home, I love you guys the MOST!!!

Kolkata aka Calcutta aka sweatbox

Hey everybody!

For the past week we have been sweating it out in Kolkata, getting to know each other a lot better as we all shared a HUGE dorm room at an inexpensive yet awesome guest house in the heart of the city. Our week has included a lot of metropolitan overload. Think New York City only WAY louder and more crowded and no rules. A quiet cafe with awesome air-conditioning and familiar food has been a much needed for many of us. Just to be clear, it is almost 100 degrees every day. And humid. Our group has struggled and rallied through irritating conditions, and we are focusing on a balance between individual reflection and group LOVE.
Yesterday everyone visited a Victoria era building that is often compared to the Taj Mahal. It showed us a little more about the history of India under British imperialism. We also made a short visit to the Planetarium to check out Kolkata's night sky in a cold dark quiet dome.
However, besides group bonding and getting out in the city, our main focus here has been volunteering with the Mother Teresa house. Katherine, Elaynna and Rosie have been working with sick and handicapped babies and small children, holding them and giving them as much love as they possibly can. Nick, Laura, Alex, Sarah, Stacey, Bob, Devon and myself have been working at a home called Prem Dan. Unlike anything that I have ever experienced, Prem Dan is a raw and challenging mixture of a mental institution, nursing home and a hospice. It is absolutely heartbreaking, uncomfortable, new and horrifying, but many of us have found ways to make our days there rewarding, whether it is Stacey trying to take a woman whose face got burned off for a walk in a garden where she can hear the birds or Laura scrubbing her fingers and knuckles off washing laundry for the patients. I have found that our time and love is the greatest gift anyone can give to another person.
As we ready ourselves for an ascent into the cool moutain air and prepare to say goodbye to our luxurious city living, I hope a new setting will bring new challenges and everyone can continue to find new ways to love our temporary family unit members, ourselves and India.
Keeping it real in Kolkata ,
Saoirse

Sarnath and Bodhgaya

Hello family and friends. We are now just about three weeks into the trip and time is starting to fly by. We are currently taking in the sites of Calcutta, however, I will be talking about our last day in Varanasi and our brief stint in Bodghgaya. On our last day in Varanasi, the group decided to venture about an hour north to a place called Sarnath. Sarnath is holy to all Buddhists because it is the place where the Buddha gave his first teachings. Sarnath contains holy stupas (basically temples) that Buddhists from all over the globe come to pray. It was a beautiful and peaceful environment where we had time to reflect and take in the history that surrounded us. It was interesting that there is this holy Buddhist site is less than an hour away from one of the holiest Hindu cities. The contrast was nice due to the fact that we had been in Varanasi for over a week; so the break was welcomed. We caught an extremely early morning train ride from Varanasi to Gaya the following day. After having been in class 3 with AC from Delhi to Varanasi it was quite the shock to all of us changing to normal sleeper class. When we boarded the train in Varanasi, there were people in our seats. It took a solid 20 minutes to get them to move because they were confused about there tickets. They had the seats reserved up until Varanasi, but couldn't comprehend that they had to move. In each section there are supposed to be 3 bodies to a bench. In this instance, there were 5 people to a bench the entire train ride. At this time we understood that there is no such thing as personal space in India. We arrived late morning in Gaya and took rikshaws to Bodhgaya. We were all tired and grumpy, but it didn't stop us from moving along with our day. We arrived at the root institute in Bodhgaya and all of us were in shock due to the beauty of this Tibetan Buddhist meditation retreat center. The grass was well taken care of, there were flowers outlining all of the paths, there were kind and gentle monks and nuns, and there were even dogs that we could play with that weren't strays. Later on in the afternoon we were escorted by David and Annette (monk and nun) through the city to the Bhodi tree and temple where The Buddha attained enlightenment. There were Vietnamese, Shri Lank an, and Thai Buddhists just to name a few who made the pilgrimage to the most sacred spot on earth for Buddhists. Our group continued on through the main market in Bodhgaya back to the institute. The next morning we were up for 6: 45 meditation. The meditation center was calming and some of us were able to get into it (others not so much). We received Buddhist teachings from an Australian monk named David. He taught us that Buddhism is all about achieving inner happiness and enlightenment. We learned about Karma and about how everything you do whether it be good or bad has an effect on your Karma in future lives. We learned that Buddhists don't believe in a creator God and that they don't believe that there was ever a beginning to life. The depth of Buddhism was astounding and we all left with much better insight into what went into being a devout Buddhist. We ended the day with another meditation session where more people were able to meditate. The last day in Bodhgaya we went to a couple of caves where the Buddha spent extended time in mediation. It was at these caves that The Buddha realized that you could not achieve happiness or enlightenment by fasting. We relaxed in the afternoon after having a full past few days and hopped on the night train to Calcutta where we currently reside. Everyone is excited about heading to the mountains and cooler weather in five days. That's all for now. Hope everything is going smoothly for everyone back in the states.
Namaste,
Alex