Freeeeeee Travvvvlin

Greetings blog readers, worried parents, friends of friends and creatures, space aliens of all kinds. We left off in McCloud gang in the wintery little village of the daliest lama and took a day train to bikaner. Avery quaint little desert town, we arrived late at night and not a creature was stirring, only wild dogs sniffing through garbage. We turned our attention towards our hotel, my bloodstained sheets and cockroaches let me know this was indeed a 4 star hotel. upon our introduction the hotel managers stuck a paper mache deer in jeff's face, we were all pretty tired and confused, before we all retired to our infested nests the managers offered me 100 rupees to swim naked in their swimming pool, best 3 dollars i have ever made. The next day we roused slowly and headed for a temple, apparently tourists weren't allow but because of our excellent guided we were able to get in. There was praying singing, drumming, and ecstaticness filled the air as we all looked towards the unknown idol in the passageway and were doused with holy water and tulsi. We explored a nice market place with the cheapest posters in all of India, it was nice to get prices on gifts and food. We saw some historic building and the worlds tiniest painter swooned us with his miraculous eye power as he took tiny brushes on tiny paper and made beautiful pieces. We ahh and oohhhed at the silky textile bed sets for the whole family as the charismatic indian rolled out countless sheets of Indian works. We quickly left to catch our camel adventure, into the desert. We drove out of the city, face to face with camel jockeys and their treasured camels, we all arose into the sky and bounced until our groins were pounded to dust. Under the stars and the flood of cold desert air we ate ten million chipattis and all huddled together for warmth, this is the meaning!!!! of group bonding, the ultimate. We woke up several times in the night and probably nobody slept, but it was worth it to see countless shooting stars and not get eaten by desert tigers. After a long morning, we rode for an hour to have a really long lunch, sitting in the shade many of us discovered the lice in Calcutta had followed us all the way to the desert. The group moped and chuckled as we picked the little critters out of our heads. I still can't decide what is better, lice or leeches? After returning to our hotel, we relaxed our legs muscles and went out for a nice dinner and silly time at a restaurant in Bikaner. Returning only to Eli, who hadn't joined us in the slickest of suits, we could tell he was feeling classy. We all sit the nests early that night so that we could adventure to Jaipur in the early morning. after the stuffy morning on the train jaipur finally arrived, it seemed relatively calm, but suddenly as the day progressed the calm got more and more demanding, and the people did as well, it was impossible to find quiet people always approaching you to buy things it was a crazy mess. We had nice thalis, I met a nice braman man and he was able to show me a nice gem shop. Eli and Tiana went to a fake psychic guru who guessed their lives and I think many just retreated to the hotel. I arrived late not wanting to be overcharged for a night rickshaw and got lost near the hotel. When i returned the group was almost reunited enough to go see harry potter in a ridiculously fancy mall. There was a pigion in the top rafters and wondered if he felt fancy. The movie was great, with a particularly awkward intermission, and close security making sure jeff could not put his feet on the seat ahead. The movie did a great job of making me feel like i wasn't in India any more, I think after the taxi ride home and the first half of the next day we were all glad to be leaving for pushkar.
More coming soon, thank you readers.

Here we are in McLeod Ganj, tucked high up in the hills, surrounded by even higher peaks-the mystical Himalayan Mountains. After our week at Deer Park Institute, we were able to enter this week in McLeod with clear and focused minds. We are all excited to finally have reached this destination, so different from any place we have previously been to because of the strong Tibetan influence, or rather, a city many Tibetans now call home away from home. If it wasn't enough just to be able to see this place, we also had the privilege to stay with Tibetan families. To really get the inside scoop on the situation in Tibet and how these exiles live their lives outside of their native countries.
We arrived in the afternoon, driving up the steep narrow roads we have all grown to know and love. Street vendor after street vendor selling handicrafts from wool socks, scarves and leg warmers to food like veg AND non veg momos and Thukpa (the traditional hardy Tibetan soup). We were quickly introduced to our host families and before i knew it, we were all parting our separate ways to our new homes. Once again, we call a new city home.
My home (and i think this goes for everyone) was very small. I wasn't expecting anything huge and luxurious, but I didn't think it as going to be this up close and personal. My home was about 12' by 12'. My bed, a stove, their bed, a small closet, and of course the shrine or alter, decked out with golden Buddhas and Lamas, candles, incense, flowers. My family told me that back when they lived in Tibet, they had a separate room for their alter, a sacred room. Now, they cover the alter with a curtain every night to keep it sacred. This cozy and personal way of life was a shock, but easy to get the hang of. We all had the same bed time, woke up at the same time, and all i had to do to eat breakfast and dinner was slightly turn my body to the table next to my bed! I had to take showers only after a warm day so the water on the roof would heat up, and my host dad had to go and fetch it. Turns out i only showered twice in the week, double the amount my parents took! As far as food goes- such great home cooked food that we all were craving especially this time of year, thinking about the thanksgiving meals we were missing. And we sure didn't go hungry. Tibetans like to eat a lot at one time, and will relentlessly serve you more food even when you think you might explode. Im sure all our different families had their own quirks that i know your sons and daughters are telling you all about.
Our time in Mcleod Ganj feels very independent. It was the first time we all really split up, all in different homes, we all chose different internships, we all chose to use the day however we wanted. From learning to make dream catchers and stone necklaces to cooking to yoga to thanka painting (traditional Tibetan painting ... I know sounds a lot like Thukpa ...) to learning massage and reiki. An endless list of skills to learn and events to attend. So, I cannot speak for everyone but i think the overall vibe is there were just too many amazing opportunities to be a part of in such a short amount of time. Every night there was something new: a documentary on Tibet, open mikes, personal stories being shared on people's experience in Tibet and trying to get out of Tibet, watching an incredible sunset with the valley below. I learned an enormous amount about the situation in Tibet in this one week here. I realize how sheltered i am in America concerning Tibet. Over all, I am blown away by the kindness and charm of Tibetans. Such caring, genuine people even after years and years of suffering, suffering i can not even begin to imagine. They won't hesitate to smile at you, and in my experience ten times less pushy and aggressive than Indians. A real breath of fresh air.
It felt great to run into someone in the group every now and again. Walking down the street and bumping into a familiar face and quickly sharing the most recent news before moving along to our next activity made the city feel like we had been living here for a while. When we all met for Thanksgiving dinner it felt like a great reunion. Like extended family reuniting on the yearly thanksgiving day. We all had our stories and experiences to share. Everyone seemed a little different to me, in a good way of course. I think McLeod Ganj changed us and formed us, adding more experience under our belts.
I loved the short week here in McLeod and it is a place that will be calling my name until i return back. Although i am more than sad to be moving on, i am excited to see what Rajasthan brings, our last 12 or 14 days together. How time flies by...

Gratitude is my mood...

Gratitude is my mood...

If anything I've learned from travel it is that we are all family in some way
sucked down by gravity to walk this land
And on Thanksgiving 2010 with you, my brothers and sisters
gratitude is my mood

when you glow as you write and wrestle and wrestle and write with your journey, Amanda,
you alight inspiration
and gratitude is my mood

when you dance and dance then sit for hours discovering deep friendship with your own soul, Andi,
you alight peace
and gratitude is my mood

when you turn over and over the secrets of all spiritual paths with wonder and curiosity, Dylan,
you alight wisdom
and gratitude is my mood

when you open your heart again and again to connecting, laughter-filled, explorative conversation, Eli,
you alight true friendship
and gratitude is my mood

when you subtly yet powerfully and thoughtfully carry great care and concern on your shoulders for this family, Jefe,
you alight integrity and beauty of character
and gratitude is my mood

when you assert your goddess power- in observant eyes, strong voice and kind smile, Nelle,
you alight meaning of true leadership
and gratitude is my mood

when you extend your warm soul to encompass in love and mystery and music those in your sphere, Nico,
you alight transformation
and gratitude is my mood

when you happily transport your sitar across Northern India and mesmerize yourself with thanka, Trevor,
you alight discovery and growth
and gratitude is my mood

when you kindle lights of humanity with every being you meet with your welcoming smile, Tiana,
you alight hope
and gratitude is my mood

when I lay my head down each night in utter exhaustion
having bathed in new waters
explored rainbows of tastes
gained friendships
ignited more questions
discovered a new nugget of inner and outer mystery
and melted with another sunset, Mother India,
you alight life

and gratitude is my mood


for Carpe Diem India Fall 2010
Amanda Joy Rader

Hey!

The Deer Park Institute. A place built up in our minds as the home to five days of bone-chilling buddhist-style silence. Five days with few, if any interactions with the other carpe diem group members we have grown to love and hold dear. Five days of mindful nothingness.

Upon arriving at the institute, all these intimidating perceptions were thrown out the window. The atmosphere was far less strict than that at Phool Chatti and the expectations set out by Deer Park for our group's participation in the program were met by the mere act of us showing up. Deer Park is situated in the quaint mountain village of Bir (pronounced like the beverage we have contractually guaranteed Jeff and Amanda we would not drink). Any plans we had to keep silence were lost, with the exception of meal times and during meditation.

The meditation program taking place during our time there was rather rigorous even though we were not expected to follow it religiously. The program involved seven, hour long sitting meditations per day with walking, tea, and chanting meditations and lectures sprinkled in throughout. It was not apparent to me how exhausting it is to sit in the same position for sixty minutes until I tried it seven times a day. The monk teaching the course (whose name I can't remember, everyone just called him "Venerable") was trying to get us to live in the moment. He said that our thinking mind can only exist in the past and the future. In order to escape suffering, we must be mindful of what we are doing, while we are doing it. It's a concept that we all struggled to fully comprehend.

The food at Deer Park was some of the best I've tasted in India. This made it hard to eat slowly and mindfully, like we were asked to do. The institute was very environmentally responsible. The food was locally grown, the hot water came from solar panels, and the that trash could be, was recycled.

On the fourth day of our stay, most of the group made its way to a hot spring about an hour away from Bir despite warnings of torrential rain. After an hour hike through mountains and a wild cannabis field, we arrived at some jacuzzie-style hot springs. They were really hot. While the group was boiling in the natural baths, it began to hail and eventually the rain we were promised began. We took this as our cue to head home.

It is strange to think that the end of our stay at the Deer Park Institute meant that there is less than a month left of trip. See you all soon!

Eli

Home of the Golden Temple

Hi Everyone,

Tiana here, ready to give you all the 411 on our time in Amritsar; which wasn't much... and note that most of our time spent in Amritsar was mostly free wandering on our own, but I will do my best to include everyone. Lets’ see... We were there for a total of 3 days and were lucky enough to find a decent hotel right around the corner from The Golden Temple. After pretty much starving for some hours on the train ride (who ever keeps track anymore), we all decided to try and find a bite to eat even though it was around 10:30 pm. All the restaurants were closed, so our options were street foods or a shop that might be open. It's difficult to navigate around an area you haven't been in before and it's dark, but Nelle and I decided we would go around the block and see if we could at least find something to drink. We found a shop called "Lucky Refreshments"... lucky us. Before coming across this place we were telling each other how we felt Amritsar was a lot calmer compared to other places; peaceful and how it seemed a little safer... Then when we walked up to the shop, this guy kept harassing me asking where I was from, my name, and how he was single. We were ready to pay and leave, but on the way out; I tried to pass another man who was in front of me staring me down. He put his hand up to not let me pass in front of him and stepped forward. So I decided I would try to walk behind him, and as I did he rubbed his hand up my backside. I felt so violated and angry, but was so exhausted I didn't know how to deal with the situation. Another man on the walk back was shouting inappropriate remarks at us and we just couldn't believe all this was happening in the 20 mins we had been in Amritsar. Just when we were saying how we thought this place had such a calm and nice vibe to it. We spoke way too soon.

Besides that incident on first arrival, we had a pretty early morning the next day moving from the hotel to accommodations at the Temple. The place was full of backpackers, and pretty much a room made to burn people alive. It was poorly ventilated so it was always ridiculously hot inside. However, it was doable for the next couple days and it gave us the opportunity to meet and chat with other travelers. That day we all decided to wander around and see the city. Some went to see the temple or eat there; they served free food all day! How awesome is that. Others went shopping, to see other temples, and I went for coffee and to find some Chicken. Amritsar happened to be one of the few cities we have come across where people actually eat meat! Jeff, Trevor, Dylan and I were crazy excited. Or at least I was.

All day I had gone on a long search to find this place that served chicken, but no luck. It wasn't until later that night that Andi and I finally got our hands on the Lonely Planet to look up a restaurant. We found this place called Aurah which was supposed to be pretty far, but we were determined. It ended up being a girl’s night out to dinner because we had convinced Nelle and Amanda to go as well. So we hopped in a rickshaw and it took us a good 30 mins to get to our destination. It was worth the drive because besides the time it took, taking a rickshaw always is a nice way to see parts of the city you may not see otherwise on foot. Also the food was amazing! We were so stoked, not only because this place was so nice and had great food (and dessert; warm and gooey fudge brownies), but there was a subway right next door! Who would have ever thought you would find a subway here, I know we didn't. We told the boys our secret place the next day and had no choice but to go (Eli loves subway; we have photo documentation). The subs were definitely still an Indian version just like any other food not originated from India, but it fills the void.

That day some of us decided to see another temple called Mata Temple, which is a Hindu temple. It was interesting... think of at first walking into a colorful and beautiful hall and then you are directed to go up a staircase on the side to find that this temple has a fun house of mirrors, murals, and gods. You walk through caves and ankle deep water to get to the main shrine, which I believe was the huge head or mouth of Shiva..? Not sure. There was a lot of confusion on my part, but it was still an interesting experience. Later that day we also had plans to go to the Pakistan border to watch the showdown that goes on there. Or at least we thought it was... Basically it was a fancy way of closing the border gates. Both sides have members of their military marching for a good 20 or so minutes. The marches are cool I will give them that and when they all have marched their happy high kicking selves to the gates, they do a synchronized bringing down of the flag, the end. It was interesting because they do this every day and it is amazing really the volume of people that come to see this event. There were waving flags, chanting, loud music and dancing which most of the group joined in on. In the end I personally was mostly impressed by the hype and enthusiasm the people have from both sides. I think that is what made the experience.

Another cool opportunity we had was the chance to stay overnight in the temple which has been said to be a spectacular experience. The downside is that the chances you will actually get sleep is not likely. Amanda (leader), Andi, and Nelle had already done this the second night and they said it was great even without getting much sleep. I suppose we had similar experiences except... before hand they forgot to mention how the temple is never really closed. There was constantly people walking around and worshiping, all night and all morning. Then at 3 in the morning you get woken up by the people cleaning the floors of the temple. So you are forced to move to the outer areas if you want to continue sleep. The up side is they do offer you chai all night/morning as well, really good chai too. The view of the Golden Temple at all hours of the day is amazing because the way the light hits the temple every hour changes the golden gleam dramatically. However, at 3 in the morning the view is even more magical with the moonlight. The Golden temple is definitely magnificent. It makes lying on that cold marble floor and getting soaked with freezing water early in the morning the experience of a life time.
Well I think I will stop here since this covers most of the key events (besides the old school shades shopping rampage we all went on), but I hope this gives you some insight into our adventure in Amritsar. Stay Well!

T. Woods

P.S

Sorry it took so long to post, but the Internet here is always disconnecting

Dear avid readers,

Hello.

I am currently faced with the task of blogging about our week at the Ashram in under 15 minutes so I can get to the Pakistani boarder in time for the show. And even I was stricken by the sheer weirdness of that last sentence. The week took on completely different meanings for each one of us as we all trekked through mountains and walked across beaches in silent meditation, visited waterfalls and tiny idyllic villages resting on mountain summits, ate chapatti after chapatti, bathed in the Ganga, and received ashtanga yoga lessons from Lalita Gi. Ah, Lalita Gi, this woman presented herself as one of the most serious human beings to ever walk the planet dressed in bright orange, until about day three or so when her stern countenance gave way to tiger pose ( a particularly sensational assana from laughter yoga) and the explanation that the reason Shiva can get high whilst us mere ashram-dwelling mortals cannot is because "Shiva can breathe and destroy the world, I cannot do that."
Reading was one of the main activities for almost all of the group, Herman Hesse being a general favorite with three titles currently in circulation amongst group-members. Other groups were also an important of this week as Carpe Diem and Leap Now! united with travelers from all over the world (seriously, I'm still wondering about the acrobatics doing, non-English speaking, exotic miniature instrument playing Russians) to make this week a meditative affair to remember. Actually, I'm still wondering about most of the souls that embarked with us on this journey and about the cosmic fiber that brought us together at this time in our lives and for this peculiar experience. Ashram life revolves around the yogic path in all eight of its incarnations and had us breathing, cleansing, meditating, serving, eating, renouncing, and developing a more intricate understanding of ourselves, together. The underlying belief of the path is that everything in existence is a manifestation of a single consciousness, a higher entity to which all beings pertain separated merely by the distraction of living, and the ashram was the optimal place to silence the distractions and dwell on our inner selves for a while. One big thing that suddenly commanded the attention of many group members was our individual relationship with food. Due to the emphasis placed on the ritual of eating, a silent and solemn practice at the ashram, our attention was brought to how we nourish ourselves and blessing our food and meditating on it before digging in is now a widespread practice. Nourishment, inner nourishment, I could say, became the central practice of the ashram as our greatest interaction became purely with ourselves for most of the day. The beautiful landscape combined with a supreme sense of self succeeded in opening the gates to a somewhat new mindscape that will continue to take form as we move on to our next challenge: a completely silent five day retreat. But before that is Amritsar, of course, home to the Golden Temple with its supreme beauty, overflowing and raucous kitchen, and BABY SIKHS!...all kind of Sikhs for that matter. Oh, and Dylan is still with us, for those of you who were wondering.

On a final note,

May the Long Time Sun Shine Upon You,

All Love Surround You,

And the Pure Light Within You,

Guide Your Way On

-Andi

Remembering Rishikesh..... Ahhhhhh yaaaaa....

Hello!!!!! It's been a while! Your blogger today will be me, Trevor Jermasek. This is my first blog on our trip. Actually, I think this could be my first time ever posting a blog. Period. So please please, bear with me, I'm trying. And I know that Amanda already put a little somethin somethin down about are travels up in those holy hills, and i cant say that I'll do much better, I don't know if you noticed, but Amanda really likes blogging.....

But To get back to the point, we were in Rishikesh. I guess I'll just start from the being, though its been a while. We arrived in Hardawar, an hour down the Ganga from Rishikesh. After emerging from the train ( 17 hours from Varanasi to Delhi, a 6ish hour "lay-over" there, and a 7 hour trip into Haradawar... All in all, a whole lotta travel. A little old woman curled up on my feet somewhere around one in the morning on the train to Delhi. I sat for about thirty minutes, stuck in a bit of bewilderment, thinking to myself, "WHO DOES THAT!?!" India does that. So i started to poke her like crazy. This made her only crawl further into her shawl. The woman across from me intervened, pinched the little shawl woman so hard she shot on to the floor of the train. All and all, another successful encounter with the Indian people......) ....emerging from the train a cold breeze hit our faces. WHOOOOOOO! We had made out of the hot sticky air of the plains, finally back into the mountains. The change in climate could not have made me any happier at that moment. The train station was quiet and sleepy, which I think was a first. A little later, me Jeff, Tiana and Andi were sitting in a rickshaw/bus, colored in this strange red light. The owner of this ridiculous machine cranked his equally ridiculous Indian music to eleven, and we took off. This was one of the most unerving rides that I think I've experienced, and have we had some sketchy rickshaw adventures... I kept daring myself to look out the road, only to be met with complete darkness. Our headlight barely making a dent, we charged into traffic head on, this guy was out of his mind yet so at ease, "shooting the gap" every minute or so at 50. Like always... we made it! A warm bed was just what we needed...

Rishikesh!!!!! A good breakfast of eggs and toast did the trick the next morning. The view from me and Eli's balcony was amazing, something that I could really get used waking up to, and we basked and lounged in its glory for morning. We walked down into Rishikesh as a group, got our orientation in white water rafting, and then had the day in town to ourselves, Which included the discovery, maybe I was the only one excited by this, of samosas... FILLED WITH FRUIT. So tasty, so life changing. We walked Rishikesh up and down, losing ourselves in its back alley ashrams, and making friends with its tiny, miniature hairy cows. Nelle and Eli made an attempt at the waterfall down the road, a little too late, and ended up having to turn around before reaching the big one (No worries, we got redemption a few days later). A guide warned us of the dangers of lions that prowl the mountain by night. Whether or not that was true at all, it was really dark, so we headed back home. The night ended really nicely, with good food and good company. Me and Eli then retired to our bachelor pad.....

Rapids!!!!! The day begin with an early rise and a scenic drive up the river. We got the low down from are raft guide from Colorado, Jedidiah I think? We did some drills and jumped in the water. This day actually went by pretty fast, it all just blends together into one great time. We hit wave after wave of water, but never got thrown. That was actually my one goal, get unintentionally thrown from the boat. But it never happened.... Well, at least not in my boat.... In fact, now that i remember, Dylan and (leader) Amanda got tossed on the first rapid.... The day ended, soon enough, group happy and soaked. I realize i've really gotten caught up in this blogging thing..... Sorry sorry, i'll finish up.

I cant speak for everyone, but the next day was extra special for me. Me Eli and Nelle (once again) made the push for the waterfall up the road in the morning, and finally made it. It was unbelievable. The waterfall was perfect, pouring into a crystal clear, blueish pool of the most unbelievably refreshing cool water. A bit of a rock climb up and there was another even more spectacular pool, the rocks created a sort of cave-like shade. It was wild, sitting up there, to think that somewhere so beautifully had been sitting next to us, for two day, undiscovered. We spent some amazing hours up there, swimming and relaxing in the jungle, and came down satisfied and content... So that pretty much sums up rishikesh, or at least my rishikesh... You might be asking, hey Trev, what about the Ashram, and didnt you just get into Amritsar last night?!?!?! Not my job people! its up to Nick and Andi to give you the low down, but let me assure we have been having some great, amazing experiences. Anywho.... Know that we are all safe, happy and heathy, sleeping under the Sikhs holy Golden Temple tonight, and know that we all love and miss you!!!!!!!! Thanks for all the emails/comments/love that you've been sending our way! Keep it comin'!

Trevor

Rishikesh: Rafting and Relaxation.

Greetings from Rishikesh, the world's "capital for yoga," not to mention some incredible white water rafting, mini cows and an array of other great wildlife. Rishikesh sits on the beautiful ganga, sparkling brilliantly and clean (as clean as it gets here in India) as it makes its way through this beautiful canyon. Yesterday the crew took a day trip down the river, rafting with a company called "Red Chilli." Our guides were awesome, the scenery was breathtaking, and the water was perfect. Monkeys of different size and color dotted the landscape. We even had the honor of viewing two massive vultures with a wingspan that would put Michael Jordan to shame (it might be a close call as to whose is bigger).

The rapids, mostly mid threes, gave us a great ride and left us plenty satisfied. We even had the opportunity to jump in and swim the rapids, a refreshing soak as we floated the surface of the river. Rishikesh has definitely made it to the top of the list within my favorite destintions in India (and perhaps the world?). With its layed back atmosphere, beautiful landscapes, fabulous shopping and, not to mention a destination that could be described as 'rafting meets spirituality' at first glace, I could call this place home. There's even a pretty good mexican food selection at many of the restaurants. Yes, Mexican food, here in India! Alright, it's not quite like home when you bite into a quesadilla that is made up primarily of cucumbers, but it's a start.

Tomorrow we head out for Pool Chatti ashram, located about 5 kilometers from where we are currently staying. The week will consist of quiet reflection on the banks of the ganga in between mediation, yoga and a variety of programs aimed at improved self-awareness.

(Btw, this is just an exerpt from my blog, so you can read the full version at http://thirdeyeactivist.blogspot.com/2010/11/ganga-cleansings-and-monkey-business.html)

Hope everything is going well back in the states! We miss you and love you very much!

Much love,
Amanda

Ganges

Yesterday I took a walk down the bank of the Ganges with Nelle, Jeff, and Amanda Ji. It was a walk that won't leave me for a while.

As we began our stroll we immediately came across a Bollywood style dance scene being filmed on the steps leading to a temple that sits on the edge of the river. Indian music was blasting from a speaker as ten dancers, half of whom looked confused and overwhelmed, moved to the screaming narration of the director. Taking all we could from the uniquely Indian moment we had stumbled upon, we continued our walk. Perhaps it was naive of me to accept the bollywood dance as the most outlandish scene to be seen on the side of the Ganges, because just one hundred feet down river came our next adventure.

Each year, during the Monsoon season, masses of silt are washed up onto the Ghats situated next to the Ganges. This mud can be as much as five or six feet deep, and is nearly impossible to walk across. An unfortunate cow found this out the hard way. One of the countless thousand pound beasts that roam the streets of Varanasi had walked into a deep part of the silt, only to sink to a point where only its head and back were above ground. There were five Indian men pathetically attempting to pull it out with a couple of ropes. We were eager to help, but at a loss for how to do so without getting covered in a thick layer of Ganges mud (a hotbed for hepatitis B and dead body remains). Eventually, the five men working on freeing the animal, tied two ropes around the cow. One rope around its torso and another around its head. They then beckoned us down to help pull. Nelle, Jeff, Amanda, and I found the least muddy place to stand by the rope, and began to play tug of war against the mud. The cow groaned and rolled its eyes to the back of its head, which made it hard to feel very good about doing what we thought was best for its well-being. After toiling with the rope for five or ten minutes, we successfully pulled the cow out of its dirty captivity. It immediately ran away. Just as everyone felt the relief of having saved this holy Hindu creature, another began to walk to the same place where the first one had gotten caught. This cow was firmly wacked with a large stick. Crisis averted. Taking a moment to regroup and wash our hands, we set off for more excitement.

India did not disappoint. Just a few minutes away from the cow, lived a colony of monkeys. They were climbing, jumping and running all over the buildings overlooking the Ganges. They climbed up and down and jumped from one building to the next as effortlessly as a human crosses the street. They are tricky animals. We watched them take things from open windows of houses. When the owner of one of these houses would come out to shoe them away, they would hide, just out of sight, but close enough to resume their mischievous work when the home owner retreated. Even monkeys lose their novelty after a while, and so we continued down the holy river.

Passing water buffalo and religious men, kite fliers and boat drivers, we reached the final destination: a burning ghat. We sat quietly on a bench, humbled by the sight of a human body being engulfed by flames. There was no attempt to hide what was occurring. Gradually the body's expressionless face melted away into the ash below and its limbs and torso turned into an unrecognizable, charred mass. Goats, dogs, water buffalo, and cows meandered through the burning ghat, actively looking for scraps from the fires. Occasionally a worker would hit these animals with a wooden branch, but only if they got in the way. By in large the animals were left to live in harmony with the death around them. After over an hour, we were asked to leave, to make room for mourning families. And thus ended our trek down the bank of the Ganges.
-Eli

Varanasi

There is so much to say.

This is our sixth of nine days in this holy city on the Ganges. In that time, all remaining healthy members of the group got their first taste of Indian sickness (Dylan and Trevor). No need to worry parents, everyone is healthy now and stronger for their struggles with unfamiliar looking bowel movements. Please excuse the crudity. Meanwhile, we have all taken part in a variety of internships, some alone, some together. I won't attempt to be poetic in telling you the names of all the internships, they are as follows: jewelry making, stone carving, tabla drumming, sitar, classical Indian singing, Bollywood dance, fire dance, Indian cooking, and Hindi language (required for everyone).

I have taken jewelry making, tabla drumming, Hindi, and Indian cooking. Some are better than others. Jewelry making has been quite fulfilling. In just less than one week Nelle and I have actively (with much help) made a block of pure silver turn into two sterling silver ring. The instructor is a jovial third generation jewelry maker that has little pearls of wisdom to share with us while we pound away at the metal objects.

In addition to the internships, we’ve been doing various group activities over the past several days. We’ve heard two lectures now, one from an Indian philosophy professor and another from the head of Guria, an organization working against prostitution and human trafficking. Yesterday, we broke out of our usual neighborhood and took a tour of the larger Varanasi area, stopping to explore two Hindu temples and the BHU historical art museum, which featured stone carvings and paintings from a variety of ages and styles. We then stopped by a theater to see a wonderfully sappy Bollywood romance. Overall, it’s been a highly fulfilling stay in Varanasi, and we’re looking forward to our last few days in this city.

Bodhgaya

We got off the sixteen (but what felt like longer) hour train ride in a sleepy daze. The sun hit us hard as we stepped off of our sleepers and into the plains of India. We realize winter here means the hottest day in summer where most of us come from. We smoothly found rickshaws and easily bargained our prices to get from Gaya to Shechen Monastery in Bodhgaya. We were all pleased to get a breath of fresh air in this less hectec city. The colorful gates of the monastery were inviting and we couldn't believe we were staying in such a peaceful, tranquil, comforting, holy place after the long, dirty nights in Kolkatta.

These last few days we have been exploring the city, going from temple to monastery, Bodhi tree to OM cafe. Some took the day to see the 60 foot Buddha, some meditated their way through the day under the Bodhi tree and the surrounding grounds of the "Main Temple". The Bodhi tree sits next to the "main temple", with its many branches extending shade around the back side of the temple. There are places to sit in the grass, ponds to gaze at, many monks and worshipers coming in and out.

We spent the afternoon yesterday at the Root Institute, getting more in depth with Buddhism, meditation classes, and yoga that the Institute offers. We were able to talk with a Tibetan nun (her name escapes us) who gave us real, straight forward answers to our many questions on Buddhism. The Instituation has a health clinic and many oppurtunities for people to practice Buddhism, and for teachers to go stay offer talks.

A group of us woke up at 6 to join in on the morning prayers the Tibetan monks chanted at our temporary home. It was an awakening experience, full of drumming, horns, rice throwing, and loud chanting. It lasted for an hour leaving us somewhat enlightened, but still ready to go back to sleep.

We all come home with new stories and new experiences, new friends, and new ideas. From palm reading to foot reflexology, from meditation under the holy Bodhi tree, to being able to see all the different forms of Buddhism. Japanese to Tibetan, Chinese to Cambodian- They all have their own flair. At times I think we are surprised by Bodhgaya. Some of us expected a more calm, relaxing town where Buddha was enlightened- but we still find Bodhgaya to be the same crazy India we are starting to know and love. There is still a very fast paced energy- especially because the Durga Puja is still being celebrated. There is a party mentality lingering in the air- techno music blasting from trucks carrying Durga, and loud fire works and bon fires. This morning the Puja floats were dumped into the river. After months of preparation and three days of celebration, the hard work and good times float down the river.

Luckily, Bodhgaya offers SO many sanctuaries to go and get a real breath of fresh air. We found the people are friendly and helpful, and the city itself i think is one we will all want to visit again.

Tomorrow morning around 4AM we leave for Varanasi. We cant believe we have concluded our time here in Bodhgaya, but we are all so excited to see what Varanasi has to offer. Bring it on, India!

"The most happening festival of the Bengalis"

Hello everyone, its Christmas, or so it appears in rickety old Kolkata now that Durga Puja is in full swing. The town has been taken over by lights and shoppers, eager to be ready in time for the festival. The actual festivities involve walking around "trick or treat" style to visit the many temporarily erected shrines to the Goddess Durga who slayed "Asura" to reestablish peace and sanctity for all. The shrines range from the dramatic to the caricaturesque with all themes and mediums in between. Amanda was recently reading about one eco-friendly shrine, erected by a group of students, that won an award and praises in the press for its design. The ones we got to see included small, local shrines made in the traditional reds, oranges, and golds, a handful of bizarre neon stands with mechanical tributes to Britney Spears and the popular "Three Idiots" from the more popular feature film, one Egyptian themed pyramidal shrine, with Durga represented as an Egyptian Pharaohess( I know I'm making up words as I go but India has a way of invoking its own lexicon), a couple of decked out, regal shrines complete with fancy chandeliers and heavy traffic at little fairs in which we got to ride the sketchier incarnations of dragon rides and Ferris wheels. One of my personal favorites was one done entirely in white with the exception of the faces of Durga, her beasts, and her victim, thereby heightening the tension encompassed by this epic moment and highlighting the dramatism of each figure's expression. All modes of Indian expression seem to carry with them this high drama, this need for color and embellishment, be it a Bollywood movie, a traditional dance, a mystical prayer, or the laments of a beggar trying to inspire pity in a couple of naive foreigners, however no place that we've visited so far comes close to the pure, unadulterated carnage and chaos of Kalighat, a temple for Kali, the goddess of destruction, where the tension is literally "cut through with a knife" each time a goat is slaughtered to the booming of drums and the violent exclamations of violent worshippers.
Inside Kalighat, or under Kalighat, in a tiny alleyway separating the throngs of Hindus making offerings from the... I hesitate to call them priests but the men more or less receiving the offerings and crowding the black plastic shrine itself, is where we found ourselves. Looking up at the chaos and being flanked and bombarded by people passing or jumping down from the temple "just to see that tiny plastic figurine...it is Kali, right?" says Tiana skeptically after getting a sight of "that little thing" that everyone is fuzzing or more like frenzying over. Oddly enough, seeing a goat slaughtered is hardly the craziest thing we've witnessed, taking into account the organized ritualistic mode in which it was performed. What seemed more scaring about it was looking at a live creature and knowing it was about to be dead for some and seeing the severed head gushing blood in one corner while the twitching body kept moving for what felt like an eternity in the opposite side of the pen. An odd family affair, this butchering, but the temple was nonetheless crowded by entire families with children and babies embellished with eyeliner, black bindis and all. We saw worshipers put their head between the two little pillars where the goat was later decapitated and men breaking coconuts, splashing the contents and breaking the shell as a prelude to the massacre. My natural instinct was to hide behind Tiana and close my eyes, India is a lot like that, it throws shit your way without really giving you time to think about how you want to act so all you have to fend for yourself is your gut reaction. Defenseless in the face of clashing consciousnesses, all crowding the space and making navigation in both the physical and spiritual sense dizzying and all but impossible. JUST NOW Titi and I were forced to leave this computer so as not to miss a throng of dancing men accompanying a statue of Durga that is about to be disposed of somehow and we wonder, in lieu of a holy river, what creative option will be coined. In terms of clashing consciousnesses we now find ourselves in Bodhgaya, the birthplace of Buddhism, where most of the team sits and meditates in a peaceful gompa with monks, nuns, and sanghas, at the Root Institute, just a rickshaw ride away, separated from us and the Durga commotion by a handful of monasteries and temples crowded into this tiny town.
Other highlights include:
John, our "FRIEND NOT TOUR GUIDE," falling off of a moving bus as he attempted to get us home safely after herding us around the Kolkata Pujas.
Most of us projectile vomiting within a day and half, I'll refrain from going into the details, we're all okay now. (This is also the reason why my blogging was delayed, and for that I sincerely apologize.)
Finishing our volunteer work and being left with all the lingering questions that such work inspires.
And just all around having to watch our heads, our belongings, where we step, where we eat, where the rest of the group is, where we're going, and where we are, not to mention the moving traffic and occasional cow.

(Hola Ma, Hola Pa! Estoy en India!)
Cheers!
Andi

Calcutta, cal cut ya

Hello world, its been far too long since our last blog. Happy to report that we are all still alive and kicking. This addition to the blog is being typed up by yours truly Nichlas Stephens. When you last left the group we were in the high mountain village of Darjeeling, known for its quality teas and fresh air, things have taken a drastic turn as we descended that towards the train station to Calcutta. First of all, there was a strike the day we left for the train so we had trouble finding a driver. Our driver ended up being of the same union but was willing to compromise for us. WE made a decline into the plains after 5 hours of bumpy jeep riding. In the distance, we grew nearer and nearer to a mysterious golden triangle which ended up being a Hindu temple in the jungle. Entering our first village of the plains we emerged back into the long lost humidity we thought we'd left behind in Delhi. I'd been a long week and a half since our bodies were coated in perspiration. The driver in our vehicle playing us a dis contorted Hindi version of hotel California over and over, which felt fitting as the town seemed like a continuous loop of buildings to the sides, palm trees and strike check point of crazy men who surrounded our jeeps as we roared passed.
Arriving in the train station Parking lot, our jeep was blasting Akron which our driver played after hearing we were mainly all from America. BAD IDEA. Our car was surrounded with beggars, to the extreme extent that we hadn't quite seen yet. After altitude sickness and taking care of own bodies, it was hard to see the little girls carrying slings of their younger brother, (or what rather looked more like an alien) not supporting their neck, and just holding it in front of you like you had some part in creating it's god awful situation. As well as the mother standing aside while her naked children ran to us from the garbage piles, scouring for food and then holding their hands out for money. I gave them all the bananas in my bag. The sudden guilt, I know many of us didn't believe we'd ever have the desire to eat again. The heat and the shame, inescapable as we tred towards the station with our bags weighing us down. Having another 2-3 hours until leaving for Calcutta we tried to find refuge in a secret location, only to be found again by the children, dancing for our amusement and requesting to play Dylan's drum. Trying to offer them something more or less than what we need, we let them share their smiles and well rehearsed dance moves with us for a short while before being scurried off to another location to weight for the train. One has to wonder if they had been taught those moves to make a quick rupee or if it was in their soulful blood to dance to the rhythm of the drum.
In despair we sit an mope in the station, having been drained of all the humility left in our hearts we cling desperately to walls and our bags trying to process the scene. The smell of garbage fills the air and we once again find ourselves surrounded by begging children. Dylan suggests we play them music which turns into a purging of emotion and energy. Loud strumming breaks three of my guitar strings as we meet eye to eye with every walk of life. The music rages out of Dylan and I and as if sounding like being caught in a hurricane dylan wails don't stop. His beats, my melodies, the rest of our group sitting by givi9ng what they can, if they can. It felt good to have something to give. Like closed buds of Venus fly traps opening to digest flies.
Aboard the train we think we are home free from anybody expecting anything from us. But children with brooms sweep at our feet asking for our water and food. Sitting next to an Indian man i ask him if his father is nearby, making him pester us, and he smiles and nods to me as if i am catching on. Our train cars fastened with minimum beds hanging from the walls, and my seat having a window. When the train got going I sat silent with the breeze. Trying not to feel selfish for not wanting to share my bed, after learning to either close myself off of open myself up to the world of poverty. I fall asleep to the peace of my favorite music. Not being one of the unfortunate ones to be waken up in the middle of the night, having my ass pinched by the transvestite trying to collect money from us. Eli explains how furiously told the beggar to leave having had enough of being bothered and woken up in such miserable circumstances. Dylan on the other had sleeping through the ass pinching never got to experience the inconvenience of what the transvestite had to offer. Apparently a Hindu family earlier in the ride gave rupees to him had claimed transvestites being an incarnation of Krishna or Vishnu, which is unsurpassably weird, considering Indian's disposition with homosexuality. We all wake up early right as we arrive at our destination. Calcutta, we get off the train to view the grey skies, much different than those beautiful clouds we left behind in Darjeeling. Or those snow caps of the Himalayas. We were now choked with the hot exhaust of the city as we took curious taxis to our hotel. After much confusion we all arrived, walked down the alley way past the dead body, improvised brick urinal, and the dark room where people were bathing, into our dear hotel paramount. Getting situated into our rooms we all decided to lay down having not gotten much sleep on the train. The restlessness kicked in pretty soon, and we all went out in search of a restaurant to catch up on our diets of three meals a day. Luckily we found a place with air conditioning and sat sipping mango lassies and eating thalis. Back at the hotel we prepared for the day ahead getting oriented at the mother Teresa orientation. Many of us slept, some explored more, others retreated to the comforts of solitude of friends. I can't say this for everybody but i was beginning to feeling a closer kinship with our group than I have felt with anybody, all these experiences all this endurance. The next day came and we walked down the streets, passed the communist rally and the decaying fruit stands, coconut shells filling the streets. We wander what feels like aimlessly, until we find the mother Teresa house.
People there of all cultures, there with the intention to make a difference in the suffering of this city of 14 million, the poorest people in the world. We split up into groups of languages, Andi having an opportunity to reconnect with her roots by speaking Spanish with some Spaniards, and I connecting with a girl from Rome. Our group came together to discuss the reality that many beggars are well taken care of but continue begging as a lifestyle because they are making so much money from the tourists sympathy, we learn about the different mother Teresa centers to volunteer at and decided that day where we'd be spending the next week.
That night we went out to treat ourselves to a movie. Many went and caught a glimpse of Indian culture on the big screen, some others went back to the hotel while I wandered down streets aimlessly trying to get a feel for my surroundings. "Hashish" old men with wrinkly skin would come up and murmur at me, I'd wave them off and continue down the road, into a market, only to be pestered by everyone I'd seen to buy everything i saw. Desperate to talk to somebody who wasn't trying to sell me something, i run into two middle aged women. I should have known not to get mixed up with them with they were the fist women I'd met to shake my hand and clutch my arm after agreeing to have chai with them. Sitting on a muddy stoop, the woman's sick child's foot touching my leg, I try to have a normal conversation. Getting interrupted every now and then to be asked for rupees, my sympathy gets the best of me and I offer over 500 rupees, so that these woman could supposedly buy plastic to stay dry when it rained. There is no doubt that these woman are poor, but it wasn't for a few days that i realized that this would never change these woman's lives.
They would always be begging, so the next day i agreed to meet them for a walk to the park so that they could share with me their story. Back at the hotel i had a hard time communicating my experience. Everybody was thoroughly wiped out and we all rested the best we could preparing for our last day before mother Teressa. After breakfast i met back with the woman and they took me to the "science city" I have to admit even though i was paying for everything, it was nice not have to arguing the taxi driver into a cheaper price, on account of my Indian friends. After the day at the amusement park it was hard to feel our experience was worthwhile as they begged me from the next seat over in the cab for food for their babies, this is when i learned to ignore beggars. After getting left off I only felt let down. I walked to the new hotel we had moved to and the group recounted their experience dealing with the beggars. Nobody was having an easy go at the city and we all had intense things to say about Calcutta.
In the morning we woke up at a grueling 7 o clock to make out way to group breakfast with the other volunteers. Bananas, white bread, and chants to Jesus, prepared us for our day of charity work. The guys all boarded the bus on our way to Nabu Jabon, the center for all male patients with mental and physical disabilities. The smog thickened as we moved further away from the dark brown river and the tourists far from few. The first bus station/half flea market we stood awaiting our next chariot, with only the knowledge of a few numbers to our heads. We finally catch the right bus and stare out the windows at the flooded streets. Arriving at Nabu Jabon, we are greeted by a toothless gentle man with a pirates swagger. His laugh resembling a shrill squeal as we namaste everyone trying to figure out who is sane. Setting down our bags and getting down to business half of us clip the fingernails of the decrypted and the other half stomp on soapy peed on boys shorts, rinsing, wringing, and hanging up to dry a top the roof of the facility. Going down to meet our new friends we shake hands with all the the children. Many having sobered on hands and eyes that cannot stay focused on anything. We slowly begin to realize that many of these children aren't too disabled but in fact "run the show", they show us who is needing bibs at lunch and needs their wheel chair pushed, in between clapping our rhythms that is our only form of communication with these kids. Percussion speaks louder than words, well unless the children release one of their famous shrill screams. This work is hard gratifying, and afterwords its nice to return home to our hotel after the rush hour bus has us standing for 2 hours, sweating and cursing the fact that all we have to look forward to is coming back the next day and the next. Luckily we the work gets slowly more rewarding as we connect with these children, after the 4th day it's starting to feeling like home.

Back from Trekkin, Hello Darjeeling!

Finally back in the city after a long week of trekking in the Himalayas (specifically on Kachanjunga, located in East Sikkim). This morning we said goodbye to Arthur, our contact in Sikkim who has been absolutely wonderful. He will be missed as we continue our journey.

It's great to be back in the city, taking bucket baths and sleeping in a real bed. ...Someone is doing our laundry as we speak! I think everyone is pretty excited to get some clean clothes on. We just arrived about an hour ago to our hostel, located just down the street. I noticed they had an amazing book selection from other travelers and I'm eager to check out the selection! other group members have been rummaging through local bookshops and finding some great reads as well. There are many westerners in Darjeeling (at least on this street). Darjeeling is much like Bangtok; steep roads packed with buildings, dogs running around on the streets, although it consists of a different, unique charm that we all have taken a liking to. We're close to Nepal and so many of the people are Asian in origin. many woman rep traditional Indian wear, whereas many of the men look more western in style. In Bangtok we went to a small place called Live and loud and listened to a cover band. We didn't stay long... We're half way around the world; who wants to hear the rock music we grew up on? Our drivers tend to play mostly western music from the early 2000's. It's weird to hear music from middle school when we're flying through Darjeeling back country.

So, a little review on our trek... The first day we walked 7 hours up steep terrain. We were exhausted by the time we got to camp, arriving just after the sun set. The second day was better, walking about 4 hours that day. There were many waterfalls and great views of the mountains around us, although they were difficult to see most of the time as it was pretty cloudy. A majority of the group came down with a cold, so on top of freezing nights, most of us could barely breathe and spent a good amount of time with tissue in hand. My fleece liner actually kept me pretty warm at night, but I heard from a few others that the sleeping bags could barely cut it. We're all finally recovering from out colds (discluding Amanda and Jeff, who just so happened to walk out healthy as ever.) Besides the sickness, being on the trek was awesome. The trails were mostly rocky and sometimes wood was laid out to keep us above mud. Our trip guides led pack animals up that carried most of the gear consisting of ponies and yaks. It was fun dodging animal poo all along the trail ;) For each meal, 3 meals a day with snacks, we had a cooking crew that whipped up some really delicious food. Typically we would be served our large meal and then a hot pot of milk tea (when we got sick they actually made us ginger tea).

Here in Darjeeling many of us went to the zoo/museum on mountain climbing, while others spent time taking in the charms of Darjeeling, sipping tea and taking in its many delights. Some of our group members also visited a local monastery.

We will be here for a few days and then head on to Calcutta (Kolkata). Hope everyone is well at home! I know a good majority of the group is starting to feel a little homesick, so know you are missed!

Much love!

-The group

Goodbye Gangtok

Hello Carpe Diem parents and friends,

Tomorrow the India group begins their six-day trek through the Himalayas. We are sad to be leaving Sikkim so soon but excited for the trip ahead.

Amanda Carnahan, one of the group members, is keeping here own blog on the trip. You can find her blogs at //thirdeyeactivist.blogspot.com/

Mama India

After a thirteen hour plane ride to Hong Kong, a six hour layover, and a four hour flight through Thailand, we arrived safely in Delhi. We spent two days jumping around the bustling city via cab and rickshaw, using the opportunity to buy Indian clothing and musical instruments as well as taking time for a peaceful respite in a local ashram. Delhi offered a wild and unreserved introduction to the many faces of Indian life, from the delicious food and chaotic marketplaces to the naked presence of homelessness and poverty. Our hotel in the Tibetan district provided a space for group orientation while we acquainted ourselves with the country and our fellow group members (including Tiana, who arrived on the last day).

While Jeff stayed in Delhi to search for Dylan’s bag, the rest of the group began a long trek towards Gangtok, Sikkim. A scenic drive through the mountainous northern region brought us to this large Himalayan town, where we met the host of our group home-stay, Arthur. Gangtok, which tumbles beautifully off its steep mountain face, seems rural and calm compared to Delhi. We learned about the history of the Sikkim region, attended a talk on the future of nearby Nepal, and met the owner of a local rug company that we will be working with for the next week. We are currently learning how to operate a loom, dye yarn, and perform the various other tasks involved in rug making.

In several days we will begin our three-day trek through the mountains. We give you our best wishes until the next entry, and hope you wish us a fulfilling and leech-free experience!

...And They're Off to Mama India!

With the exception of poor Dylan's bags being left behind in NYC by his domestic airline, and Tiana needing to meet up with the group in a couple of days due to a visa mishap, the India group is intact and ready to fly westward to the most amazing adventure any of them have yet had.

Look for more from the group members themselves in a couple of days!

p.s. FedEx will be delivering Dylan's bag to his doorstop in Delhi, no worries!

Countdown...

The countdown to takeoff for the Motherland of India is down to the fingers, and with that mounts starry-eyed excitement, flurries of butterflies, curiosities, concerns, etc. Even though we (your leaders Jeff & Amanda) have set out multiple times on these quests, we still feel the spectrum of these emotions in the lead-up to flying away from 'home'... we think of it as the billowing clouds around the rocket before launching into space.
We hope that this blog can serve as a bridge between our Carpe Diem group and you, all our friends and family, who have supported us along the way to make it to this juncture of 'leaping' into uncharted territories. Please stop by the blogsite often, and if all goes as planned, we'll have a weekly update on our adventures for you to travel along with us vicariously.
Thank you, and tune in again soon!

NAMASTE

To all those friends and family who have been following our blog we thank you for all your support and good wishes over the last 3 months. We have successfully wrapped up a full semester in India finishing off our "free" travel through the fresh air and beautiful trees of the lake district of Nainital to end up with an extended exploration of New Delhi. In New Delhi we stayed in a wonderful, calm, Tibetan community called Majnu Ka Tilla. From our little pocket in the north of Delhi we were able to properly see the historical sights the city has to offer. We showed off our skills at bartering transportation, in the markets and spent much of our time soaking in the culture of India and Tibet. Some continued to volunteer with Mother Teresa and the many children India has who need help. Some decided to volunteer with the local animal shelter and gained much perspective on the lives of lost animals in India. Some decided to educate themselves by diving into the World Heritage and Gandhi sites. We ate momo's and curry and prepared for our journey home. Each one of us has learned scores about the world, eachother and ourselves. Mother India has not only welcomed us into her arms but held us firm together as we tumbled across her land and then she sent us home with safety, protection and a few worldly lessons learned as we ended our journey peacefully.

Once again... Our love and appreciation to all of you who supported each of us during the last three months. This journey would not have been possible without you.
PEACE and NAMASTE.

Mcleod Ganj

"Where we love is home,
Home that our feet may leave, but not our hearts."
Oliver Wendell Holmes

Nothing helps sooth the heart like some quality family time. After almost 2 and half months of traveling with no place to call our own, we found ourselves a home. For 8 days McLeod Ganj served us up a steaming plate of family lovin', which is exactly what we all needed. Our homestay began in the afternoon after the long journey from Amritsar. We had only a few moments to say goodbye to group members before we were rushed off by parents or elder siblings to our week long homestay. Tibetan families welcomed us with open arms into their homes of all shapes and sizes.
The week literally vanished before our eyes as each day was spent getting to know eachother better and accomplishing our various internships. Kathryn, Rozzi and I enrolled ourselves in yoga classes which provided a healthy and relaxing start to our mornings. We felt like yogi masters having already accomplished a prior week of yoga study at the ashram. Alex, who missed the Hindi classes due to tummy aches, decided to brush up on his Hindi and took classes each afternoon. Saorise independently branched out and did environmental volunteering, where she spent a day beautifying a local water fall by picking up trash. Bobby, Elaynna, Sarah and Laura took a several different massage courses. The girls satisfied their curiosity and interests through a 2 day program while Bobby took a 6 day course getting certified in Tibetan massage. Needless to say our internships were successful.
Outside of our classes there was still an abundance to learn. McLeod Ganj is known for being a home to Tibetan refugees. I spent three incredible afternoons at the Tibetan Hope Center involved in English classes. Classes such as these are amazingly beneficial to the community by improving local Tibetans English and furthering their connection with travelers. For an hour-and-a-half, myself and two Tibetans would talk about simply everything and anything. I heard long, emotional accounts of heart breaking choices to flee Tibet and the struggle to cross into India on foot. On lighter notes I discovered how many Tibetans had never tried Pizza and that most of their favorite foods consist of Momo's.
But we all know,
Mo momo's mo problems.

This past week was a perfect way to soak up the last bits of North Indian culture before beginning our free travel. McLeod Ganj provided many beautiful experiences for our group. Our enthusiasm for our homestays only increased as the days went by. Family relationships grew stronger as each of us started to truly feel at home in this small Indian/Tibetan town. Oliver Holmes was right, even though we are no longer physically in McLeod Ganj a piece of Carpe Diem's heart still beats there.

paz & amor
dev

Turbans and Temples

Thank goodness for our peaceful week Phool Chatti ashram, because the days following were a whirlwind of travel, exploration, group discussions, heat and crowds. Upon arriving Chandigarh, the only planned city in all of India, we were thrust into finding accommodation which, as Elaynna mentioned, Devon and Rozzi spearheaded and secured us a spot at a very comfortable hotel. While most of our first day there revolved around much needed group meetings, we did manage to explore the clean, paved streets scored with stoplights, and an expanse of outdoor mall that turned carnival-esque at night. It was there that we had a pre-birthday dinner at a South Indian chain restaurant for Sarah, followed by some deliciously cold soft-serve ice cream and some freshly popped popcorn.

The following morning we all made it to the famous Nek Chand Rock Garden of Chandigarh. Never heard of it? Neither had we, but apparently it is the second-most visited site in India. WhenChandigarh was in the midst of construction and they were clearing out villages to make way for the huge malls and wide streets (makes the city slightly less charming, no?) there was so much garbage and rubble lying around that a gentleman named Nek Chand decided to do something with it. Long story short, he received some money from the government and got to work creating a beautiful rock/sculpture garden/maze/extravaganza that spans 40 acres. Needless to say it was a phenomenal sight. We then headed to a birthday lunch for Sarah, at Ruby Tuesdays! Talk about a Western city. As we departed Chandigarh that afternoon, we said goodbye to our little taste of American culture and prepared totransition into traditional India once again, but this time in Sikh style.

Our three days in Amritsar were intense, exhilarating and filled with stunning sights. We were greeted at the Golden Temple by crowds of turbaned men, women in beautiful saris and more babies than I think any of us have laid eyes on. Though we did sleep in a dormitory designated for foreigners, it was in the temple complex, and all we had to do was take a step outside the room to by surrounded by Indians who traveled far and wide to pray at one of the holiest shrines in Sikh culture.

Our days were free to be spent exploring, photo-taking, meandering through the temple complex and eating at the Gura-Ka-Langar--a free community dining center that serves approximately 9,000 meals a day! Eating our Langar-the name given to this charitable meal- was an experience I don't think any of us will soon forget. You're beckoned by the incessant clanging of metal plates, and once inside, are handed one of those plates, a bowl and spoon and join the moving mob. You're herded down the large hallway, trying not to lose sight of the other group members as you're pushed and prodded from all directions until you finally burst into a great hall lined with mats on which you rush to secure a place. The actual serving of the food is surprisingly quick and in a similar fashion as the ashram. Men with baskets of fresh chapatis and buckets of steaming dahl and rice pudding, rush to fill your plate. The food is delicious and you are welcome to ask for seconds, in fact, you witness many women stuffing extra chapatis into bags or dahl into tupperware. After fifteen minutes, the serving and cleanup of 500 people is done. Insane.

Our final afternoon was spent viewing the India/Pakistan border ceremonies. It was similar to a huge sporting event, though there is no real interaction between the two sides apart from a handshake. It seemed that the main goal was the lowering of the flags but there was a lot of hooplah beforehand, including but not limited to: dancing, running with flags, marching guards and the part where soldiers from each side try to yell at a single tone for as long as they can. There was much cheering and clapping from both sides and the energy was electric. Obviously there is no declared "winner", but I think everyone in attendance can agree that India outperformed Pakistan, at least in the crowd aspect. It was a pretty bizarre experience, but definitely worthwhile and a fantastic ending to our time in the Punjab region of India.

We are now all happily settled in our homestays in McLeod Ganj so you can look forward to an update on that soon!

~Kathryn

Learning to Breathe

Hello Friends and Family!

After settling into Rishikesh with a much needed roof top group meeting, we all decided that Stacy's idea for a solo day for our first free day in Rishikesh was a grand plan. The given space left us with the opportunity to re-visit or discover our intention or overall purpose and desire to why we are here in India. It is easy to get caught up in the hustle bustle of a place like this, but it's even easier to lose awareness of where we actually are. We find ourselves pinpointing problems in our group dynamics or focusing on food for the majority of the day, forgetting the potential depth we could be delving into if we simply melted expectation away.Our solo days varied from cafe journal time, river side sitting, massages, exploring, and the tastiness of fine dining. There is nothing better than a date with yourself and a simple realization of why I am here through sipping on a flavorful, nothing but perfect cup of Masala Chai.
We were then ready to soak up the sun with some wet and wild rafting fun! We spent the following day with the sun kissing our skin as we laughed and screamed folding in and out of the rapids. As we jumped off rafts and splashed in the water of the Ganges river we simultaneously "washed away our sins" as many believers in India would say. We ate a delicious lunch along the riverside and got to know our charming rafting guides. We spent the next day settling and preparing for the following week which we spent at the Phool Chatti Ashram. With little idea of what to expect we were all excited to gain more yoga and meditation experience. Although we all as individuals got something different from the reatreat, I felt it was an excellent time and place for self reflection, and realization of where we all personally stand in terms of discipline while living " The Ashram life". The calming energy melted into our skin and relaxed our minds.

Bodies clutter and stabilize on warm cement
Stretching and creaking our limbs as we bend from side to side
The moon is out with the evening day light and she is smiling big
Her glow wrapping around our heads as we fold them down against our knees
Breathe in, Breathe out
Our feet are planted firmly against sticky mats as we teeter from side to side attempting to find balance and maintain it for a steady stand
Breathe in, Breathe out
Rooftop yoga. A picturesque view. The Ganges river rages and rushes right before our eyes as its sounds pounds and soothes every movement.
The mountains caress each other as they layer over, under, and beyond the water and sky
Stretch up up up, crown to the tip of the sleepy sun, our fingertips grazing the moons energetic crescent
Breathe in, Breathe out.

We started our day at 5:30 am with meditation. The rest of the time was spent chanting, doing breathing exercises, netty pot cleansing, rooftop yoga, contemplative walks (which were absolutely beautiful along the river, and up to the waterfalls), free time, more yoga, temple prayers, fire ceremonies, simple but delicious vegetarian eating and ending our day at 9:00 O'clock with guided mediation. All meals were silent, and everyday was spent in silence until after lunch to provide the opportunity for more inner reflection, and self meditation. The schedule was intimidating at first, but the more one engaged the easier it got. Group members were in and out of sickness but did their best to dive into what they could. Overall it was a very powerful experience, and an absolutely gorgeous place. We have all left with a handful of songs and chants that will probably stick like glue to the corner of our minds for a long time. Leaving the Ashram we were quickly and somewhat violently thrown back into the real world with an hour and a half ride to the bus station. It was loud, crowded, and overwhelming after such a peaceful set of days. Luckily Alex and Laura were able to quickly find transportation to Chandigarh. We settled into a 6 and a half hour bus ride, and upon arrival, though sleepy and delirious Devon and Rozzi found us a place to stay ten minutes after stepping off of the bus. With that said, we are here safe and well for today and tomorrow (Which is lovely Sarah's 18th Birthday! My beautiful girl all grown up:) ) We are then headed to Amritsar!
Missing you all and sending our best from India.
Namaste
Elaynna

P.S. Sharing Sarah's Birthday is my little brother keirynn. So, Happy 6th Birthday buddy!!! Your big sister loves you to bits and pieces.

Our Himalayan Trekking Adventure!

Hello Family and Friends!

Wow.
That's the first word that comes to mind when reflecting back on the amazing experience we all had hiking through the Himalayas. Our first day we came together immediatley as a group--bound by the unified joy of being out in nature. We had been itching to get to the mountains since Calcutta and we had finally made it! And thank goodness we had those high spirits because day one was a challenge to say the least. We walked for 8hrs that first day, which began with blue skies and a friendly sun shiny down on all of our smiling faces. We certainly got our fair share of the Himayalas however, when we were greeted at our first base camp by an overcast sky, snow flurries, and COLD! When I finally reached camp I rememeber not knowing whether to cry, collaspe with exhuastion, or burst into hysterical laughter. Despite these mixed emotions though, we were all able to join around the dinner table that night with the aura of satisfaction.
That night, Kathryne and Devon gave me my first real lesson in astronomy, and I can't imagine a better sky for it! It was truly as if the earth had never been touched by civilization. I saw more constellations then I even knew existed! We fell asleep that night to the soft brightness of the milky way shining down on us as we were serenaded by the quite jingling of the bells that were around our pack animals necks.

We woke to another full day of hiking, this time all up hill. The hike was made more than bareable however, as we climbed into the thick rhondadendrone forest that covered a majority of the mountain that day. The reds and whites of the fowers encompassed us as we hiked along the trail. Deep green moss covered almost every inch of the ground, which was also sprinkled with purple flowers and bright orange butterflies. The scenery that lay before us had an almost mystical atmosphere. After this day, the common theme for the trek actually became a "Lord of the Rings (movie one hehe)" setting. Thankfully there were no black riders.
The higher we climbed, the colder it became--another example of the extremities of the Himalayas. When we reached the "one hour to go" mark, the snow was already an inch thick. It was crazy thinking we had been boiling the day before. SO much can change with just a few thousand feet! Sarah and Stacey struggled with their health especially on this day, but we thankfully all made it up in one peice and in happy spirits. We had finally made it to our highest base camp!

Day three was a relaxing one, where we were woken up to a hot cup of steaming tea served to us right in our tents--a much need amenidty for all of us, seeing as it had snowed a good three inches during the night. It was definitely a good tactic of our guides for coaxing us out of our tents! We proceeded on with the day with a leisulry day hike with the intention of reaching a mountain lake a couple miles out but naturally, the group became side tracked when we started taking pictures. Hopefully we'll be able to upload some onto the blog for you all to see! By the time pictures were over however, the snow had begun to fall again, splitting the group into those wanting the warmth of our "tea tent", and those wishing to strive even deeper into the mountains. We were brought back together again that night with momos and hot mushroom soup to fuel us for our early next day.

We were woken up the 4th dayto see the sunrise at 4am. The morning was fridgid, dark, and all that could be heard was the heavy breathing coming from beneath our coats. When we finally reached the top of the ridge, we had reached our highest point in the trek--14,000ft. Despite the anxiety I felt of maybe not having any fingers left, when the sun began to illuminate the mountains I knew everything would be well worth it. As we huddled against the ridge together, prayer flags blowing in the wind that also was cruel enough to whip across our bare faces, there was a sense of peace as the pinks and yellows of the suns rays began to speckle the largest mountains I had ever seen.
Our trek back down was filled with mixed emotions of wondering where the time had gone, and excitment to be getting back into the warmth of the sun. After the sunrise we had breakfast, packed up our campsite, and made our way back down our first camp site. We got in early enough that we all had a much needed nap time before dinner. To commemorate our last night, our cooks made us a delcious spice cake.

We walked so much down hill that last day I rememeber finding it hard to imagine how we had accomplished it the first day! Bob's youth came out again as he ran/bounced down the trail. Saoirse on the other hand, realized she probably should have taken it a little slower when she almost fell of the trail! Thankfully her trusty side kick Kathryne was there to help her back up, but our last day definitely could have turned into something more than a simple hike down a mountain! I think by the end of the day we were all so tired that we were glad to be moving on, but I know that it was hard for us to leave such a beautiful place. Nature can bring people together in a different way than most things can, and we were lucky enough to experience that.

Much love to everyone,
Laura

P.S. HAPPY BIRTHDAY DAD!!!

Gangtok, Sikkim

Namaste!
After a ten hour train ride and a beautiful but extremely bumpy seven hour jeep ride that winded up through the mountains, we arrived in Gangtok, Sikkim. Originally it was supposed to take five hours to get to Gangtok via jeep however, after bouncing around in the back for an hour, our car came to a complete halt. As the Lonely Planet had warned us to be prepared for road blockages, a truck carrying two tons worth of rocks had run into some mechanical difficulties causing it to sputter out on a one-way bridge. Back home this wouldn’t be a big deal because there would be a detour that one could take. That is not so much the case here considering there is only one road to and from Sikkim. Fortunately, after being in India for over a month, our patience meters have swung far right.
From the moment we arrived we all fell in love with Sikkim. Getting away from the hustle and bustle of the cities into the mountains, where one can breathe and have a sense of personal space, is exactly what our group needed. It has been so calming and refreshing going to sleep and waking up to quietness. Also, not being sticky and sweaty 24/7 has been a major plus.
Sikkim is a state built into the mountains so every morning when I wake up I walk up to the roof and look out to a skyline of beautiful mountains with luscious greenery covering them. I don’t even feel like I am in India anymore because there is such a strong Asian influence here. From what I have observed, at least in Gangtok, a majority of the population is Asian. Also, all of the houses and buildings have a Chinese architectural influence. Sikkim borders Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan. It is quite interesting because Tibet and China won’t accept them and Southern India ignores them. It is like this lost world. In all reality, Sikkim is almost like its own country, yet, constitutionally it is under India’s control.
During our stay we volunteered at an elementary/middle school that was an hour outside of Gangtok. For the four days that we were there we taught the students a variety of different subjects including English, social studies, math, civics, and bio-chem. Saoirse found her future calling as a teacher. Seeing the energy and excitement that she brought into the classrooms everyday, that would then transfer over to the students, was touching.
The younger children, although they were adorable and I wanted to take each and every one of them home, were definitely more of a challenge. Every morning I would walk into a classroom filled with children ages 4-6 with no teacher to supervise them. With kids yelling and climbing in and out of the glassless windows, it almost had the atmosphere of a circus. I doubt that it is always like that but because we were there the teachers felt obliged to step back. In their minds, even though none of us have much teaching experience, our western ways of teaching are far better than there Nepalese ways. I wish they wouldn’t have had that mindset because I would have enjoyed seeing how a routine day of school looked for them.
Even though it was challenging, we all had a wonderful time and were sad when it came time to say goodbye. It is always difficult saying goodbye when you know it actually means goodbye. So often when I say goodbye, I really just mean see you later. This time I knew that would most likely not be the case; we all did. However, as a thank you gift, all of the students put silk scarves around our necks which is a symbol of deep appreciation and respect. Now, we all have a little something to remember them by.
Our stay in Gangtok was just what the doctor ordered. As our time comes to an end here, we are sad to say goodbye but are looking forward to our trek through the Himalayas! Hope all is well back home and get excited for the next blog which will be posted in about ten days.
--Sarah

PS. To all my friends and family back home, I love you guys the MOST!!!

Kolkata aka Calcutta aka sweatbox

Hey everybody!

For the past week we have been sweating it out in Kolkata, getting to know each other a lot better as we all shared a HUGE dorm room at an inexpensive yet awesome guest house in the heart of the city. Our week has included a lot of metropolitan overload. Think New York City only WAY louder and more crowded and no rules. A quiet cafe with awesome air-conditioning and familiar food has been a much needed for many of us. Just to be clear, it is almost 100 degrees every day. And humid. Our group has struggled and rallied through irritating conditions, and we are focusing on a balance between individual reflection and group LOVE.
Yesterday everyone visited a Victoria era building that is often compared to the Taj Mahal. It showed us a little more about the history of India under British imperialism. We also made a short visit to the Planetarium to check out Kolkata's night sky in a cold dark quiet dome.
However, besides group bonding and getting out in the city, our main focus here has been volunteering with the Mother Teresa house. Katherine, Elaynna and Rosie have been working with sick and handicapped babies and small children, holding them and giving them as much love as they possibly can. Nick, Laura, Alex, Sarah, Stacey, Bob, Devon and myself have been working at a home called Prem Dan. Unlike anything that I have ever experienced, Prem Dan is a raw and challenging mixture of a mental institution, nursing home and a hospice. It is absolutely heartbreaking, uncomfortable, new and horrifying, but many of us have found ways to make our days there rewarding, whether it is Stacey trying to take a woman whose face got burned off for a walk in a garden where she can hear the birds or Laura scrubbing her fingers and knuckles off washing laundry for the patients. I have found that our time and love is the greatest gift anyone can give to another person.
As we ready ourselves for an ascent into the cool moutain air and prepare to say goodbye to our luxurious city living, I hope a new setting will bring new challenges and everyone can continue to find new ways to love our temporary family unit members, ourselves and India.
Keeping it real in Kolkata ,
Saoirse