Here we are in McLeod Ganj, tucked high up in the hills, surrounded by even higher peaks-the mystical Himalayan Mountains. After our week at Deer Park Institute, we were able to enter this week in McLeod with clear and focused minds. We are all excited to finally have reached this destination, so different from any place we have previously been to because of the strong Tibetan influence, or rather, a city many Tibetans now call home away from home. If it wasn't enough just to be able to see this place, we also had the privilege to stay with Tibetan families. To really get the inside scoop on the situation in Tibet and how these exiles live their lives outside of their native countries.
We arrived in the afternoon, driving up the steep narrow roads we have all grown to know and love. Street vendor after street vendor selling handicrafts from wool socks, scarves and leg warmers to food like veg AND non veg momos and Thukpa (the traditional hardy Tibetan soup). We were quickly introduced to our host families and before i knew it, we were all parting our separate ways to our new homes. Once again, we call a new city home.
My home (and i think this goes for everyone) was very small. I wasn't expecting anything huge and luxurious, but I didn't think it as going to be this up close and personal. My home was about 12' by 12'. My bed, a stove, their bed, a small closet, and of course the shrine or alter, decked out with golden Buddhas and Lamas, candles, incense, flowers. My family told me that back when they lived in Tibet, they had a separate room for their alter, a sacred room. Now, they cover the alter with a curtain every night to keep it sacred. This cozy and personal way of life was a shock, but easy to get the hang of. We all had the same bed time, woke up at the same time, and all i had to do to eat breakfast and dinner was slightly turn my body to the table next to my bed! I had to take showers only after a warm day so the water on the roof would heat up, and my host dad had to go and fetch it. Turns out i only showered twice in the week, double the amount my parents took! As far as food goes- such great home cooked food that we all were craving especially this time of year, thinking about the thanksgiving meals we were missing. And we sure didn't go hungry. Tibetans like to eat a lot at one time, and will relentlessly serve you more food even when you think you might explode. Im sure all our different families had their own quirks that i know your sons and daughters are telling you all about.
Our time in Mcleod Ganj feels very independent. It was the first time we all really split up, all in different homes, we all chose different internships, we all chose to use the day however we wanted. From learning to make dream catchers and stone necklaces to cooking to yoga to thanka painting (traditional Tibetan painting ... I know sounds a lot like Thukpa ...) to learning massage and reiki. An endless list of skills to learn and events to attend. So, I cannot speak for everyone but i think the overall vibe is there were just too many amazing opportunities to be a part of in such a short amount of time. Every night there was something new: a documentary on Tibet, open mikes, personal stories being shared on people's experience in Tibet and trying to get out of Tibet, watching an incredible sunset with the valley below. I learned an enormous amount about the situation in Tibet in this one week here. I realize how sheltered i am in America concerning Tibet. Over all, I am blown away by the kindness and charm of Tibetans. Such caring, genuine people even after years and years of suffering, suffering i can not even begin to imagine. They won't hesitate to smile at you, and in my experience ten times less pushy and aggressive than Indians. A real breath of fresh air.
It felt great to run into someone in the group every now and again. Walking down the street and bumping into a familiar face and quickly sharing the most recent news before moving along to our next activity made the city feel like we had been living here for a while. When we all met for Thanksgiving dinner it felt like a great reunion. Like extended family reuniting on the yearly thanksgiving day. We all had our stories and experiences to share. Everyone seemed a little different to me, in a good way of course. I think McLeod Ganj changed us and formed us, adding more experience under our belts.
I loved the short week here in McLeod and it is a place that will be calling my name until i return back. Although i am more than sad to be moving on, i am excited to see what Rajasthan brings, our last 12 or 14 days together. How time flies by...

Gratitude is my mood...

Gratitude is my mood...

If anything I've learned from travel it is that we are all family in some way
sucked down by gravity to walk this land
And on Thanksgiving 2010 with you, my brothers and sisters
gratitude is my mood

when you glow as you write and wrestle and wrestle and write with your journey, Amanda,
you alight inspiration
and gratitude is my mood

when you dance and dance then sit for hours discovering deep friendship with your own soul, Andi,
you alight peace
and gratitude is my mood

when you turn over and over the secrets of all spiritual paths with wonder and curiosity, Dylan,
you alight wisdom
and gratitude is my mood

when you open your heart again and again to connecting, laughter-filled, explorative conversation, Eli,
you alight true friendship
and gratitude is my mood

when you subtly yet powerfully and thoughtfully carry great care and concern on your shoulders for this family, Jefe,
you alight integrity and beauty of character
and gratitude is my mood

when you assert your goddess power- in observant eyes, strong voice and kind smile, Nelle,
you alight meaning of true leadership
and gratitude is my mood

when you extend your warm soul to encompass in love and mystery and music those in your sphere, Nico,
you alight transformation
and gratitude is my mood

when you happily transport your sitar across Northern India and mesmerize yourself with thanka, Trevor,
you alight discovery and growth
and gratitude is my mood

when you kindle lights of humanity with every being you meet with your welcoming smile, Tiana,
you alight hope
and gratitude is my mood

when I lay my head down each night in utter exhaustion
having bathed in new waters
explored rainbows of tastes
gained friendships
ignited more questions
discovered a new nugget of inner and outer mystery
and melted with another sunset, Mother India,
you alight life

and gratitude is my mood


for Carpe Diem India Fall 2010
Amanda Joy Rader